North of Iceland: A breathtaking landscape

The far north of Iceland has a special attraction for ice climbers. The unique tranquillity of the landscape and the serenity of the people are just one reason why the two Tyrolean mountain guides Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner set off together for the eighth time to the north of Iceland. If the conditions are right – the warm Gulf Stream can bring all ice climbing activities to a standstill – Iceland offers countless opportunities for new and exciting lines in the most breathtaking scenery imaginable.

At the beginning of the trip, it almost seemed as if the journey had been in vain – and climbing was off the agenda. A south-westerly hurricane had pushed warm air into the region and caused all the ice formations that had been laboriously building up since December to melt. Fortunately, the storm lasted only for a short while, and most of the ice structures fell back into a deep-frozen state…

Ice climbing heaven: The canyon of Ásbyrgi

With a smile from ear to ear, Benni and Albert set off in search of new ice jewels. This time they wanted to focus their activities on the north of the island to search for new ice lines on the most remote coastline of Iceland. They scored big time and managed to do the first ascent every day. Among them, one climb stood out in particular.

There are incredible places and there are incredible routes. To find both in combination is the climber’s greatest luck. Benni and Albert found such a route in the horseshoe-shaped gorge of Ásbyrgi. Legend has it that Odin’s horse Sleipnir created this gorge with a hoof print. The scientific explanation is a bit drier,  a volcanic eruption at Vatnajökull in synthesis with rapid cooling processes due to water, building up this dramatic architercture. Nevertheless, the place has a special energy, no matter how it came about. If you stroll through the gorge you can understand why this place is called the Elven realm or capital of Iceland.

Climbing in this atmosphere was a very special experience. At first, Benni and Albert could see few climbable structures in the heavily overhanging walls. But step by step they managed to link climble sections. At the end of the day, the elves were merciful to the two of them: a few necessary lava bubbles added the necessary rock formations allowing for upwards momentum. Still, Albert and Benni had to dig deep into their mixed climbing bag of tricks to red-point a “Shelter of the Gods” (M10).

Already planning your next ice climbing trip? Then take a look at the Marmot brand shop!